Download Theatre of Fish: Travels Through Newfoundland and Labrador, by John Gimlette
Download Theatre of Fish: Travels Through Newfoundland and Labrador, by John Gimlette
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Theatre of Fish: Travels Through Newfoundland and Labrador, by John Gimlette
Download Theatre of Fish: Travels Through Newfoundland and Labrador, by John Gimlette
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Review
“Newfoundlers themselves must be God’s gift to travel writers. In John Gimlette’s frothy treatment, the island is absolutely teeming with impossibly colorful characters spouting nonstop entertainment . . . Gimlette is laugh-out-loud funny.” –The New York Times Book Review“John Gimlette is attracted to bizarre places and writes about them with often withering irony [and] surrealist panache. . . . An absurd and entertaining book.” –National Geographic “Oddly compelling. . . . The reward is the feast of stories gathered from taverns and ferry rides and old journals: drownings, battles with ‘Esquimaux’ greenhorns challenging an unforgiving wilderness, folks who still use dogsleds because in tough times, ‘You can't eat a snowmobile.’” –The Washington Post“Terrific stuff. . . . A dazzlingly multifaceted portrait of the region. . . . A hugely entertaining book in which the interest never flags. . . . As a descriptive writer, a master of the telling observation and the well-chosen epithet, [Gimlette] is in the highest class.” –The Daily Telegraph
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From the Inside Flap
An extraordinary journey across the magnificent, delinquent coast of Newfoundland and Labrador. John Gimlette's journey across this harsh and awesome landscape, the eastern extreme of the Americas, broadly mirrors that of Dr Eliot Curwen, his great-grandfather, who spent a summer there as a doctor in 1893, and who was witness to some of the most beautiful ice and cruelest poverty in the British Empire. Using Curwen's extraordinarily frank journal, John Gimlette revisits the places his great-grandfather encountered and along the way explores his own links with this harsh, often brutal, land. At the heart of the book however, are the "outporters," the present-day inhabitants of these shores. Descended from last-hope Irishmen, outlaws, navy deserters and fishermen from Jersey and Dorset, these outporters are a warm, salty, witty and exuberant breed. They often speak with the accent and idioms of the original colonists, sometimes Shakespearean, sometimes just plain impenetrable. Theirs is a bizarre story; of houses (or "saltboxes") that can be dragged across land or floated over the sea; of eating habits inherited from seventeenth-century sailors (salt beef, rum pease-pudding and molasses; ) of Labradorians sealed in ice from October to June; of fishing villages that produced a diva to sing with Verdi; and of their own illicit, impromptu dramatics, the Mummers. This part-history-part-travelogue exploration of Newfoundland and Labrador's coast and culture by a well-established travel writer is a glorious read to be enjoyed by both armchair tourist, and anyone contemplating a visit to Canada's far-eastern shores.
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Product details
Paperback: 400 pages
Publisher: Vintage (November 14, 2006)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1400078539
ISBN-13: 978-1400078530
Product Dimensions:
5.2 x 1 x 8 inches
Shipping Weight: 9.6 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
3.9 out of 5 stars
26 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#1,076,221 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Part gonzo travelogue, part anthropology, part history of an resource apocalypse, "Theatre of Fish" manages to range from profound to hilarious - with occasional detours into the barely comprehensible. For combating the latter it pays to bookmark the glossary of regional expressions - plus have the internet ready for Inuit and technical terms.The author is above all things a great listener, piecing together family histories and kinship which as it happens link to his own. The tales are mostly tragic, of the centuries long gold rush that was the cod fishery characterized by a level of lawlessness and hardship that makes our wild west sound tame. For one thing, these desperadoes are still at it.Ostensibly retracing the journals of his great grandfather who served as a doctor in the area, the author fleshes things out by interviewing the descendants of patients. While good conversation, the more dramatic the better, seems the primary criteria for mention in the book, the general population seems remarkably well endowed in this regard. It seems all Newfoundland is a stage, peopled with characters apologetically, blatantly, charmingly, horrifyingly human. The dialects are archaic, the cursing world class, the life choices and behavior frequently bad - but as they’re also hospitable, a fine adventure is had.Conversations with old timers read like the opening of a time capsule, recalling bare livings earned from a depleting fishery, killing whales, clubbing seals, and frequently getting killed in turn from storms and ice - bodies turning up in fishing gear and taking the return trip salted among the fish, or stacked on deck in the attitudes in which they froze.As with the best history, it also provides a view forward. After all, it is the story of a seemingly endless natural resource, one that endured for half a millennium in the face of ever more sophisticated harvesting by fleets from around the world - then suddenly collapsed. It’s a story ancient, contemporary and yet to be - all at the same time.The account comes in two parts, the twisted tale of Newfoundland's European visitors (the vast majority enduring virtually as slaves), and the even more desolate Labrador where the native people are still reeling from contact. To find Newfoundland on the map head northeast from Maine, passing Nova Scotia, then crossing a hundred miles of water. The island of Newfoundland is the size of Italy, with half million inhabitants clinging to the coast, water being nearly the only means of travel. Which is not to entirely dismiss Route 1 - numbered as in only - a road built in the ‘90’s. Head further north and you’re in Labrador, back on the mainland but among a population of just 30 thousand (for 3,000 square miles per inhabitant). It also enjoys ferry service when the Atlantic isn’t frozen and is traversed by a road.Any romantic notions you may have of the frozen north will unlikely survive the actual horror and savagery related here. As it happens the locals are quite vocal about not being quaint. Your moralist too may be shaken in his beliefs as he encounters the local take on niceties. Even simply bearing witness as the author does - and not being the sort to search for answers as he says - he finds questions and contradictions piling up.Consider the natives of Labrador. You take a people sublimely adapted to surviving in a sort of watery version of outer space, and relocate them for their own good into subdivisions with satellite TV, snowmobiles and convenience food. Stripped of ten thousand years of life experience hunting seals and caribou they find themselves with zilch: no identity, belief system, or occupation, utterly adrift in an alien (read our) world. No wonder they respond like captive animals, trashing their government issue housing, hating outsiders, the dole and themselves - and exhibiting periodic bouts of suicide and murder. To illustrate, supply ship crews have learned to drop their loads on the docks at dawn and depart to avoid rock throwing children.It’s the South Bronx north - and 1200 miles east - where polar bears and wolves roam the streets at night. What’s to be done when every solution tried has been ineffective at best, and frequently genocidal? So grows the pile of traits admirable and despicable, ways of life that "no longer work," yet remain precious. It seems that by embracing this very human talent for contradiction that Gimlette portrays so capably that we might learn how to respond.
Some interesting historical references, but I don't agree with much else. Have traveled to Newfoundland a number of times, and I feel he did not capture the real Newfoundland, its friendly, welcoming people. Very dark, wouldn't recommend to someone planning a trip there.
This is tongue in cheek at times, and while I can't quite agree with all that is said, my memories proceed this authors life, and living there is slightly different from hearing the stories a half a generation or generation later. Well written it does capture the fierce independence of the place and the anger around the collapse of the cod industry, which was not caused by the dorymen for sure, or the Portuguese schooners that provisioned in St. John's harbour and set sail without auxilluary engines to spend a season at sea filling their ships with cod. It was the factory ships that came later with their nets and drag lines scooping up more tonnage than nature could replace.Good read.
It seems very interesting but the english prose was to difficult for me,I am french speaking.
I loved it
Dark, and with an eye for (and disdain for) irony. If you're learning about NL, this is a good book to read, but not the only book.
A wonderful book of travels in Newfoundland and Labrador, with serious historical research, looking into social developments and politics, rich in anecdotes and quotations of ancient travelers, beautifully written with enthusiasm and sincerity. And a great sense of humour. Currently reading Gimlette's book on the Guyanas, excellent too. I never had any contact with him or his publishers.
surreal
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